Ten Safety Measures for Horse Manaagement

1. Give the horse time to adjust: a horse doesn’t adjust to change easily. I repeat, a horse is not a pet. Unlike dogs or cats, horses live in constant fear. With that in mind, don’t be in a hurry to ride off into the sunset. This was my biggest mistake when I first approached Shay. I paid for it as the above stories show. Had I allowed Shay time to adjust and added some necessary training, we would have had fewer setbacks in our relationship.
2. Stay calm: as a horse owner, you have become the herd leader or alpha mare. This means that your horse looks to you to feel comfortable and secure. If you are nervous, your horse will pick up on your fear. If you are calm and relaxed, the horse tends to stay calm and relaxed. Always work in slow movements around your horse because sudden movements spook horses. If you become a strong determined leader, your horse will follow you.
3. Turn it loose: horses stampede easily. If yours wants to go wild, let it go. Horses always return to the safety of their herd (namely, you or another familiar horse at your stable). My silly mare once decided to race up a steep embankment. I jumped off and let her go, because the terrain was dangerously impassible. Minutes later, she crashed through the underbrush, and jumping off a four foot retaining wall screeched to a halt next to my partner’s horse. Shaken from her silliness she waited quietly for me to remount. Since I let her go, we both stayed safe.
4. Watch your grip: when you lead a horse with a rope or reins, never wrap them around your hand for a tighter hold. If the horse stampedes, it will take your hand or fingers with it. Instead, gather the reins in a loose figure eight to grasp the excess length. Don’t drape the reins or rope over your shoulder, either. A sudden explosion from your animal can cause the leather to whip around your neck giving a rope burn or worse. As I mentioned earlier, I got it in the finger because I tend to hold onto the reins when I should let go. Likewise, don’t hold the reins or rope so short that the horse will step on you if something nearby scares it. Give yourself and the horse room to jump back from danger. A good yard or so from the bit to your hand is a comfortable distance. I elbow my horse for space or cram my sharp fingernails into her shoulder to make her keep her distance.
5. Stay in tune with your horse: let your horse know where you are at all times. If you move directly behind a horse, talk softly as you slide your hand over its rump. Your horse cannot see directly behind. Watch its ears and behavior. Be cautious and ready to step back out of the way if the horse seems skittish, worried, or frustrated. Avoid standing directly within a horse’s kick zone. Even hoof cleaning can become dangerous if you have a fidgety horse like Shay. Give yourself distance and don’t let your guard down.
6. Look for open territory: horses need an escape route when imagined danger threatens. If a horse has room to flee, you can retain control. Once, some noisy trucks blocked my way to a trail. Behind me a motorcyclist roared up. My horse wheeled and stomped neurotically till I screamed at the cyclist, “Please stop the engine.” He did, and I was able to nudge my horse past him in retreat. As soon as we were a few feet beyond the road block, my horse calmed down. Retreating was the wisest choice.
7. Check your equipment: whether corralling a horse, leading it, or riding out, bad equipment is a major cause of horse/owner mishaps. Properly fitted gear that is clean and in good condition is essential to safety. Ill fitting saddles can injure a horse. Harsh bits not well fitted to the horse’s mouth can make your mount unmanageable. Improper adjustments of bridle or girth can ruin a ride. As the opening scene illustrates, a loose saddle means a loose seat. I recently visited Mexico. During my stay, I wanted to ride on the beach. I told the local stable’s owner, “I know how to ride.” He answered, “OK, pick your horse.” He pointed to some shabby looking nags tied to the fence. I noticed that most saddles and pads were frayed, worn, and lumpy. Snaps and closures were nearly rusted through. Instead of picking the best horse, I picked the best saddle.
8. Get ready for the ride: the time you take to brush a horse, pick clean its hooves, and saddle up develops a relaxed mount. My Shay is eager to go out on the trail and the time I take to brush her calms her and puts her in the right frame of mind. Brushing removes irritating sand that would cause saddle sores. Hoof picking dislodges gravel from the bottom of the hoof, preventing lameness. Think of your own behavior when you are in pain. You surely get grumpy or flare up against things that cause irritation. A horse in pain from improper care and bad equipment behaves the same way.
9. Check your horse’s health and attitude: Regular veterinary checks keep your horse healthy. A sick horse can’t serve well and a horse not in the mood for a day out can also be problematic. All mares (female horses) have their PMS moments. Certainly a good rider can push a horse to work in spite of moods, but it’s better to put yourself in your horse’s mind and give it an occasional break. After I rode Shay on the beach for the first time, I gave her a day of rest because working on deep sand is very strenuous.
10. Engage a professional trainer: never be cheap when it comes to horses. I am still boggled by some backyard owners who think they can ride without taking lessons or who think they can personally train their own animal. Disclaimers on stunt TV shows warn “Do not try this yourself!” Your willingness to spend money on proper training for both you and your horse is directly proportional to yours and your horse’s safety. If you can’t afford it, don’t buy a horse. Rent one until you are ready. Never attempt to address problems on your own. A good trainer is worth every dollar spent.

Keep in mind that horses are like two year olds. They need to be corrected for bad behavior and rewarded for good behavior. The following chapter on ground work explains.